The Versatile Double -- It's Not Just For Penalties Anymore! ------------------------------------------------------------ In this lesson, I will discuss the common non-penalty uses of the double. In particular, I will describe the 3 usages I recommend every partnership include in their bidding arsenal: Takeout Doubles Negative Doubles Lead Directing Doubles Takeout Doubles --------------- Takeout doubles have been in use since the invention of contract bridge. The intent of a takeout double is to convey the message that you have an opening hand and at least 4 card support for any unbid major suits and 3 card support for unbid minor suits. (If both majors are unbid, it is acceptable to have 3 card support for one of the 2 majors.) A double is defined as takeout under the following conditions: 1) Partner has not yet bid (other than pass) 2) There are at least 2 remaining unbid suits Here are some examples of takout doubles (you are North, "x" means double): W N E S - - - - 1) 1H x 2) 1C P 1S x 3) 1H 1S 2H P P x 4) 1C x 1S P 2C x 5) 1H P P x 6) 1H P 2H P P x Examples 5 and 6 are defined as a "balancing" takeout double. (A "balancing" bid is defined as a bid made in the pass out seat.) The purpose of a balancing bid or double is to avoid selling out too cheaply to the opponents. You need not have opening strength to make a balancing double -- you are essentially bidding both yours and your partner's cards. Based on the auction, the high card strength is approximately even between the 2 sides. Therefore, even if you have as few as 7 or 8 points, you should consider making a balancing double (if you have the appropriate distribution), because partner likely has at least 9 or 10 points. Conversely, partner must also remember that you are balancing, and must not "punish" you for balancing by overbidding even with a relatively good hand. Responses to Takeout Doubles ---------------------------- The most important thing to remember is that you cannot pass over a takeout double, even if you have a bad hand. Partner is demanding that you bid, and understands that you may not have a very good hand. The most common method of responding to takeout doubles is (assuming your right hand opponent has passed): 1) With less than 10 points, bid a 4 card major if you have one; otherwise bid your best minor. 2) With an intermediate hand, jump one level, preferring a 4 card major over a minor suit. For example, bid 2S or 3C if partner has doubled a 1H opener. 3) With an opening hand, you have game. Let partner know this by cue bidding the opponent's opening suit. For example, bid 2H if partner has doubled a 1H bid. Remember, as takeout doubler, partner already knows you have an opening hand. Therefore, you should pass any non-cue bid unless you have better than a minimum opener. If right hand opponent bids, then responder is relieved of having to bid. Therefore, any suit bid by responder should show at least 10 points, and should be treated as forcing by the takeout doubler. The only exception is redouble -- in that case, the opponents have the majority of the points, so if responder has a clear preference for one suit, it should be bid, and the takeout doubler should not consider this bid forcing (in fact, takeout doubler should virtually always pass). Bidding over Opponent's Takeout Doubles --------------------------------------- If an opponent doubles your partner's opening bid, you should redouble with 10 or more points to let partner know that your side has the majority of the points. Any other bid shows less than 10 points (e.g. new suit by responder is no longer forcing). In fact, a jump shift (e.g. 1C-x-2S) is pre-emptive, showing a weakish hand with a 6 card suit. One convention that some good players use is Jordan 2N and 3N. A bid of 2N (e.g. 1C-x-2N) shows a limit raise in opener's suit (4 card support with 9-11 points), and 3N shows a strong raise (4 card support with 13+ points). Therefore, a redouble denies support of partner's suit. I don't particularly recommend you play this, I just wanted to mention it. Quiz ---- Your right hand opponent opens 1H. What do you do with each of the following hands? 1) S Axxx H xx D KJxx C KQx 2) S Axx H xxx D KJxx C KQx 3) S Axxx H x D KQxxx C KJx 4) S KQxxx H x D Axxx C KJx 5) S Axxx H x D Kxxx C Kxxx 6) S Kxxx H Ax D KQxx H KQx 7) S Kxxx H AQ D Kxxx C KQx 8) S Kxxx H x D KQxxx C Qxx The bidding has proceeded 1H - x - P to you. What do you bid with each of these hands? 1) Axxx xx KJxx KQx 2) Axxx xx KQxxx xx 3) Qxx J10xx xxx xxx 4) xxx KQx Kxxx xxx The bidding has proceeded 1H - x to you. What do you bid with each of these hands? 1) Ax KQxx Kxx xxxx 2) x KQxx xxxxx xxx 3) AQxx x Qxxx xxxx 4) Qxxx AQx xxxx xx 5) xx xx xxxx KQxxx Negative Doubles ---------------- A negative double is essentially a takeout double by responder. If you double after partner opens and your right hand opponent overcalls a suit (e.g 1D - 1S - x), you are making a negative double, which conveys the following message: 1) I would like to compete on this hand, but do not have enough points to force with a new suit (hence, the term "negative" double). 2) I have at least 4 cards in the unbid major(s), and either at least 4 cards in the unbid minor or support for your first bid suit. Your partnership needs to agree on the level at which a negative double becomes a penalty double. I recommend you play negative doubles through 3S (e.g. any double of a 4C or higher overcall is considered a penalty double). The opportunity to make a negative double occurs frequently, and allows you to compete without having to overbid your hand. I highly recommend you adopt this convention. The auction has proceeded 1D - 1S. What do you do with each of these hands? 1) S xx H Axxx D xxx C Kxxx 2) S xx H AKxxx D xxx C xxx 3) S xx H xxx D xxx C AKxxx 4) S xx H AKxxx D xxx C Kxx 5) S KQx H Axxx D xxxx C xx Lead Directing Doubles ---------------------- A double of an artificial bid demands that your partner lead that suit. The opportunity to make a lead directing double occurs most frequently over Stayman, transfers, and responses to Blackwood. For example, if the bidding goes (1NT - P - 2H), you should double with a 4 card or more heart suit with 2 of the top 3 honors (or perhaps even QJ10xx). The opportunity to make a lead directing double occurs frequently enough that you should be aware of it. Opening leads are the most difficult part of the game, and anything you can do to help your side make a good opening lead will reap dividends.