%%% Ok, you made me do some work. Attached is a very revised doubles.txt file with the answers to all quizzes and updates to the text. I will be posting it on my web site soon. %%% The Versatile Double -- It's Not Just For Penalties Anymore! ------------------------------------------------------------ In this lesson, I will discuss the common non-penalty uses of the double. In particular, I will describe the 3 usages I recommend every partnership include in their bidding arsenal: Takeout Doubles Negative Doubles Lead Directing Doubles Takeout Doubles --------------- Takeout doubles have been in use since the invention of contract bridge. The intent of a takeout double is to convey the message that you have an opening hand and at least 4 card support for any unbid major suits and 3 card support for unbid minor suits. (If both majors are unbid, it is acceptable to have 3 card support for one of the 2 majors.) A double is defined as takeout under the following conditions: 1) Partner has not yet bid (other than pass) 2) There are at least 2 remaining unbid suits Here are some examples of takout doubles (you are North, "x" means double): W N E S - - - - 1) 1H x 2) 1C P 1S x 3) 1H 1S 2H P P x 4) 1C x 1S P 2C x 5) 1H P P x 6) 1H P 2H P P x Examples 5 and 6 are defined as a "balancing" takeout double. (A "balancing" bid is defined as a bid made in the pass out seat.) The purpose of a balancing bid or double is to avoid selling out too cheaply to the opponents. You need not have opening strength to make a balancing double -- you are essentially bidding both yours and your partner's cards. Based on the auction, the high card strength is approximately even between the 2 sides. Therefore, even if you have as few as 7 or 8 points, you should consider making a balancing double (if you have the appropriate distribution), because partner likely has at least 9 or 10 points. Conversely, partner must also remember that you are balancing, and must not "punish" you for balancing by overbidding even with a relatively good hand. Responses to Takeout Doubles ---------------------------- The most important thing to remember is that you cannot pass over a takeout double, even if you have a bad hand. Partner is demanding that you bid, and understands that you may not have a very good hand. The most common method of responding to takeout doubles is (assuming your right hand opponent has passed): 1) With less than 10 points, bid a 4 card major if you have one; otherwise bid your best minor. 2) With an intermediate hand, jump one level, preferring a 4 card major over a minor suit. For example, bid 2S or 3C if partner has doubled a 1H opener. 3) With an opening hand, you have game. Let partner know this by cue bidding the opponent's opening suit. For example, bid 2H if partner has doubled a 1H bid. Remember, as takeout doubler, partner already knows you have an opening hand. Therefore, you should pass any non-cue bid unless you have better than a minimum opener. If right hand opponent bids, then responder is relieved of having to bid. Therefore, any suit bid by responder should show some values, and should be treated as forcing by the takeout doubler. The only exception is redouble -- in that case, the opponents have the majority of the points, so if responder has a clear preference for one suit, it should be bid, and the takeout doubler should not consider this bid forcing (in fact, takeout doubler should virtually always pass). Bidding over Opponent's Takeout Doubles --------------------------------------- If an opponent doubles your partner's opening bid, you should redouble with 10 or more points to let partner know that your side has the majority of the points. Any other bid shows less than 10 points (e.g. new suit by responder is no longer forcing). In fact, a jump shift (e.g. 1C-x-2S) is pre-emptive, showing a weakish hand with a 6 card suit. One convention that some good players use is Jordan 2N. A bid of 2N (e.g. 1C-x-2N) shows a limit raise or better in opener's suit (4 card support with 9+ points). Therefore, a redouble denies 4+ card support of partner's suit. Many players also play that responses at the 1-level are forcing. Although they only promise 6 points, they have an unlimited upper range. I do not like this because I think it is very confusing. For example, if the auction goes 1H-x-1S, that is forcing, whereas if the auction goes 1H-x-2C, responder is denying 10 points and is not forcing. I recommend that if responder bids anything other than redouble (or Jordan 2N if you choose to play it), that is not forcing and denies 10+ points. Quiz ---- Your right hand opponent opens 1H. What do you do with each of the following hands? 1) S Axxx H xx D KJxx C KQx Double. This is a textbook hand for making a takeout double -- opening strength, 4 card support for the unbid major, and 3+ card support for the unbid minors. 2) S Axx H xxx D KJxx C KQx Pass. You lack 4-card spade support and you have 4-3-3-3 distribution. Despite what you may have heard, you are not obligated to bid even with an opening hand. If responder passes, your partner will be well positioned to balance, and he can and should do so even with only 8 or 9 points. You also may be able to back into the auction later. For example, if it goes 1H-P-2H-P-P-?, now you can make a takeout double. That is a "balancing" double which does not guarantee 4 spades (nor opening strength). I know I advocate the "bid early and bid often" style. But,in order to play that style, you need to have what you promise when you do bid. Granted, sometimes you are stuck, and have to lie a bit, but on this hand there is no reason to do so. 3) S Axxx H x D KQxxx C KJx Double. You do have a 5-card diamond suit but you should not bid 2D. Double is a much better bid. It allows partner to comfortably compete with spades and clubs. 4) S KQxxx H x D Axxx C KJx 1S. You should almost always overcall rather than double when you have a 5-card major. Even when the auction starts with 1 of a minor, and you are 5-4 in the majors, you should prefer to overcall your 5-card suit rather than making a takeout double. This allows partner to more effectively compete. A double here strongly implies only 4 cards in spades. It is better to let partner know you have 5 spades. If the auction continues 1H-1S-2H-P-P-?, now you can make a reopening double, and partner can bid a minor if he has one (which will usually be the case). He will also be able to take a preference to 2S even with only 2-card support because he knows you have 5 spades. 5) S Axxx H x D Kxxx C Kxxx Double. You are a little short on points, but you have 4-card support for all the unbid suits. You want to let partner know he can compete with his best suit. Contrast this to Quiz 1 where I said you should pass with 13 HCP but bad distribution. In competitive bidding, suit length is often more important than HCP. 6) S Kxxx H Ax D KQxx C KQx Bid 1NT. This shows a balanced 15-18 (1NT overcalls are slightly different than 1N openers) with a heart stopper. As with an opening 1N, you should strongly prefer to overcall 1N when you have the appropriate hand.It gives partner a very precise description of your hand and allows him to be much more accurate in the bidding. Even if I changed the hand slightly and gave you 5 spades and 3 diamonds, I would still overcall 1N rather than bidding 1S. A 1S overcall is much less precise about your strength. A 1N overcall is much more descriptive, particularly with a weakish 5-card spade suit. 7) S Kxxx H AQ D KQxx C KQx Here, with 19 HCP, you are too strong to overcall 1NT. You should double. If partner bids spades you should raise (raise 1S to 3S, raise 2S to 4S). If partner bids 2C or 2D bid 2NT. This "double and correct" shows a hand that is too strong to make a direct 1N overcall. If partner bids 1N, which promises about 7-10 HCP, bid 3N. 8) S Kxxx H x D KQxxx C Qxx In the modern style of bidding, many players would make a takeout double. I do not think this is terrible, particularly because your singleton heart is a great asset. But you are slightly under strength and lack the defense that partner will expect. If you choose to bid, double is much better than 2D. But I would personally pass. The bidding has proceeded 1H - x - P to you. What do you bid with each of these hands? 1) Axxx xx KJxx KQx Bid 2H. This lets partner know you have opening strength, and establishes a game force. You are most likely going to end up in 4S, but bidding 2H gives you the flexibility to explore for the best contract. 2) Axxx xx KQxxx xx Bid 2S. This shows an invitational hand 9-11 points.Do not bid 3D. When responding to a takeout double, your first priority is to show a major suit. 3) Qxx J10xx xxx xxx Bid 1S. You must not pass. Partner has demanded that you bid your best suit. You are clearly not thrilled that partner has made a takeout double, but you must comply with partner's wishes. 4) xxx KQx Kxxx xxx Bid 1NT. This shows around 7-10 HCP and a heart stopper. The bidding has proceeded 1H - x to you. What do you bid with each of these hands? 1) Ax KQxx Kxx xxxx Bid 2NT (Jordan). You are showing 10+ points and 4 hearts. In this case, you have 13 points in support of hearts, so you have a game forcing hand. You intend to bid 4H even if partner shows a weakish opener by only bidding 3H. Note that you should not bid 4H directly. A direct 4H bid over the double (or even over a pass) would show a weak hand (less than 10 points) and 5 hearts. You are much too strong for that bid. 2) x KQxx xxxxx xxx Bid 3H. This shows 4 hearts and less than a limit raise. Remember, any bid by you other than redouble or 2NT denies 10 points. Your intent is to make it difficult for the opponents to bid accurately. 3) AQxx x Qxxx xxxx You have several choices. I slightly prefer 1S. Granted, it is unlikely you will end up in spades. Partner probably does not have 4 spades, and even if he does, the double makes it much more likely you are getting a 4-1 break. However, you are telling partner where your values are. You would certainly like a spade lead if your side ends up on defense. Another possibility is 1NT. That shows around 7-10 points. That bid is ok but slightly flawed because you usually should have 2 hearts. You could pass. That is conservative and bypasses an opportunity for you to provide partner with information about your hand. So that would not be my choice. 4) Qxxx AQx xxxx xx Bid 2H. Always support with support. 2H shows 3-card support and 6-9 points. Remember, if you had 4-card support you would bid 3H. 5) xx xx xxxx KQxxx I would bid 2C to show where my values are. 2C is not forcing and denies 10 points (you would redouble with 10+). Negative Doubles ---------------- A negative double is essentially a takeout double by responder. If you double after partner opens and your right hand opponent overcalls a suit (e.g 1D - 1S - x), you are making a negative double, which conveys the following message: 1) I would like to compete on this hand, but do not have enough points to force with a new suit (hence, the term "negative" double). 2) I have at least 4 cards in the unbid major(s), and either at least 4 cards in the unbid minor or support for your first bid suit. Your partnership needs to agree on the level at which a negative double becomes a penalty double. I recommend you play negative doubles through 3S (e.g. any double of a 4C or higher overcall is considered a "card showing" double which is often passed for penalty). The opportunity to make a negative double occurs frequently, and allows you to compete without having to overbid your hand. I highly recommend you adopt this convention. The auction has proceeded 1D - 1S. What do you do with each of these hands? 1) S xx H Axxx D xxx C Kxxx Double. This is a classic negative double. You have both unbid suits (clubs and hearts). Not only that, you are perfectly happy if partner rebids 2D. 2) S xx H AKxxx D xxx C xxx Double. You have 4+ hearts and support for partner's suit. You may miss a 5-3 heart fit but double is the best you can do. Your hand is too weak to bid 2H directly. Note that with some hands (but not this one), it is possible for the auction to go something like 1D-1S-x-2D-P-2H. That is a "negative double and correct". That shows a hand with 6 hearts that is not strong enough to bid 2H directly. 3) S xx H xxx D xxx C AKxxx Pass. You are not strong enough to bid 2C. You cannot make a negative double because that promises 4+ hearts. 4) S xx H AKxxx D xxx C Kxx Bid 2H. Your 10+ points and 5-card suit means you are strong enough and have the correct heart length to bid 2H. 5) S KQx H Axxx D xxxx C xx You have a choice here. My choice would be a negative double. You have 4 hearts plus diamond support. So you are perfectly happy to play in hearts if partner has 4 and otherwise play in diamonds. Another reasonable choice is 1N to show your very nice spade values and 7-10 points or so. Lead Directing Doubles ---------------------- A double of an artificial bid demands that your partner lead that suit. The opportunity to make a lead directing double occurs most frequently over Stayman, transfers, and responses to Blackwood. For example, if the bidding goes (1NT - P - 2H), you should double with a 4 card or more heart suit with 2 of the top 3 honors (or perhaps even QJ10xx). The opportunity to make a lead directing double occurs frequently enough that you should be aware of it. Opening leads are the most difficult part of the game, and anything you can do to help your side make a good opening lead will reap dividends.